Face to Face with the Jurassic Ghost
Ichthyosaur and Plesiosaur, 1863 by Edouard Riou
Like rural New England, Lyme Regis is a place one can’t get to easily from here unless one drives the narrow, winding coastal byways of England’s Channel Coast. But one could take a regular London train out of Paddington, exit upon Axminster’s gentle curve of a platform,
and then catch a bus or cab for a trip down, down, down, to Lyme Regis nestled along the beach beneath some of the highest cliffs in Southern England.
It is here on dark nights the imagination runs wild. There, wallowing in the low tide off the Cobb, are those eight-foot diameter fossils of shrimp shimmering in the moonlight waiting to snare an unwary wader? That swirl of water? Is it a submerged and very hungry Icthyosaur? And is that whoosh of large wings swooping off the clifftop a Tetradactyl looking for its meal? What about that dark thing that looks like a bone protruding from the cliff face, is that really a bone as large as your body?
Golden Cap just east of Charmouth.
This is the place where the remarkable creatures of Tracy Chevaliar show up at your feet rather than on your screen, a place where one-hundred million year old ammonite fossils curled like huge shrimp remind us how absurd in comparison is the huffery and puffery of over-pumped human beings.
Iron pyrite might be fools gold to a prospector claiming a square in California or the Klondike, but down the beach near Charmouth, beneath the watchful eye of Golden Cap, the touch of iron pyrite to an ammonite fossil turns it into a dark, quarter-sized coin flecked with reflections of gold—a specie whose face value devalues anything U.S. coinage has produced this past half century. Where have our Saint-Gaudens gone?
Lyme Regis is also the place where Mary Anning and Elizabeth Philpot cracked open the closed minds of male British geologists with the discoveries of giant reptile fossils. Not that it came easy for them as they were at first dismissed, and when dismissal made no more sense, other men reached for credit, but “nevertheless they persisted” and a new museum is open that celebrates Mary Anning’s and Elizabeth Philpot’s contributions to geologic and zoologic history made because of their persistence.
I have a small trilobite fossil found at Lyme Regis which if Britannica zoologists are to be trusted is between 300 and 500 million years old and puts even dinosaur history to shame. As it rests in the palm of my hand, it feels like an ancestor which deserves more respect than it gets as we race our own carbon guzzling jalopy down the superhighway of extinction.
Trilobite fossil credit: fossilmuseum.com
There is more to this place than its geology and Tracy Chevalier’s novel Remarkable Creatures. Jane Austen set Persuasion in Lyme Regis. John Fowles used Lyme Regis as his setting for The French Lieutenant’s Woman while Meryl Streep made it famous in film. But there is one story with more reach than all those novels, albeit the protagonist is more well-known than the location.
The end of The Cobb made famous in The French Lieutenant’s Woman.
But there is one story with more reach than all those novels, albeit the protagonist is more well-known than the location. The Daily Mail ran a story on the one-hundredth anniversary of World War I about a Royal Navy ship torpedoed off Lyme Regis. The bodies of seven seamen dead of hypothermia were laid out in a seaside pub near The Cobb awaiting disposition when a local border collie licked the face of one of the dead seamen and that seaman, John Cowan, stirred to life again. The name of that border collie cross? Lassie.
The Mail points out the Yorkshire author of the 1938 Lassie Come Home, Eric Knight, was 18 at the time of the sinking and there is no evidence he was aware of the story, but his own collie was named Toots and one wonders when Knight searched for a title for his book and his dog if that 1914 New Years Eve story was still rooted, like the fossils of the Jurassic coast, somewhere deep in his subconscious.
Trapeze by Clare Trenchard, Lyme Regis Sculpture Trail.
The moon dispensed blessings to each tufted wavelet
Channeling worship against the stone cobb.
A glistening tidal sanctuary buttressed
against the striated shale cliffs that fanned
beneath the studded, crystal skies. Diana rode
her mare along the crest and pondered the lights
of a town that still survived the sea.
Just woman, Saxon blood, her blonde genes
boiled with dreams of foal, and hare, and lithe men
whose buttocks rippled. She had yet to foresee the night
young Clark stumbled from the Rock Point Inn
and she hid in the Norman shadows saying, “He’s drunk
again; don’t let him see me.” But this night
only shells echoed, and she nudged her mount toward town.
The Blue Moon Series, Hobblebush Books, 2007
A Watery Jaunt through the Great Glen: Loch Ness to Loch Oich
Midway through Loch Ness on the other side from Urquhart Castle are the Falls of Foyers. Another fifteen minute walk according to the map. Indeed the falls are a short distance inland as the crow flies but alas we are not crows and what is not apparent unless one has a topographic map is that the trail not only goes inland but also goes up and up and up a few hundreds of feet from the water’s edge to reach the gorge where the River Foyers bursts through a highland ridge and plunges almost one-and-fifty feet into a pool below. One could, of course, take a bus tour and drive to the tour shops at the top and view the falls with all the fellow bus riders, but the gorge is best seen in less populated encounters because it is likely this is what much of the Highlands looked like before the forests were removed for timber and sheep. The water levels vary to great effect and like Niagara Falls, there is a hydro-electric station which diverts some of the river for power. Still the magic of what Scotland once might have looked like is reward enough for the climb.
In order to link Loch Oich with Loch Ness one must enter the Caledonian Canal at Fort Augustus which lies at the southwestern end of Loch Ness and featured, this spring at least, snow-capped Ben Nevis and Aonach Beag looming on the horizon. Fort Augustus has five locks and boat travelers pull their own weight to get up or down the five locks. As crew wait for the water to rise or fall they chat with other boaters who just might be a Royal Navy nuclear submariner veteran who knows the best places to eat along the lochs (such as Oakwood Restaurant in Dochgarroch where one might have a face to face stare down with a Langoustine (Norway lobster).
With five of the seven locks between Ness and OLich at one spot, there can be, shall we say, some competition between boaters to fill the lock before it is closed isnce it takes an hour-and-a-half to go up or down and then a reverse before the next load can enter. Normally the locks take about six boats at a time, I counted eleven at the berth outside the lock. When it opened at 8:30 a.m. for a return trip, there was a mad rush and six boats quickly filled each side of the loch. We decided we had a lnog wait ahead of us except the loch keeper then summoned us to glide right down the middle between the six other boats. If there were three inches clearance on each side of our boat between the craft already in the lock, that would be an exaggeration. Still, with brother-in-law on the wheel, we easily glided through the center channel between the six and lashed ourselves to the craft on the right. Since both boats are pulling together through the locks, 0ne gets ample time to know each other, as noted the Royal Navy submariner above, or his spouse who provided my partner w on the other set of ropes with the diagrams for a lovely Scottish shawl.
Loch Oich may be the shallowest of the lochs, and is the highest, requiring to reach it, navigating the five lochs at Fort Augustus and two more on the canal, but it’s the solitude which surrounds that separates it from Loch Ness and as Eriskay docks, it is clear the why salmon and trout anglers flock to the region. Whether berths at evening or early morning there is a silence here that again undoes the present. It is not absence of sound so much as absence of any mechanical sound. The soft footfalls on the trial to Invergarry ruins likely sounds as uninterrupted today as they did in 1878 or 1718 or 318 when the Romans gave up trying to Romanize the Highlands and simply built walls to keep the Scots out. Like King Offa’s wall was supposedly bnuilt to keep the Gaelic Welsh out, Hadrian’s Wall is a physical recognition the geography of Scotland is distinct from England, and that geography also created a people with a distinct different attitude from the Roman province that eventually became England. It makes one wish the current American president and his insecure advisor Stephen Miller could understand walls are more about keeping people in than keeping others out. It makes one wonder just what they are trying to keep inside. But, alas, that is why one cruises a boat on the Caledonian Canal–to escape, for a moment, the insecurities of the contemporary world.
These ruins come alive with the differing lights of the day. The eyes of its windows remind the traveler that all is not as it seems and psychologically the human race has been at these kind of junctures many times before. And it seems the ruins have been doing so for centuries as artist George Blackie Sticks painted during the Victorian era.
The active Glengarry Castle Hotel which resides nearby has a different approach for the traveler. At first sight, the building is suggestive of Fawlty Towers,
but upon entering, the single malt samplers, excellent cuisine, and the exuberant attentiveness, albeit somewhat youthful, of the servers adds a charm that again promises all is well and to peek behind the façade because what at first entrance looks like a single manor house is anything but that. The first house is connected to an almost identical second manor house, then a third until one discovers there are at least six fine houses telescoped together to create one hotel. This design arrangement might prompt a visitor from Asia to observe that between Glengarry Castle and Invergarry Castle ruins we have the yin and yang of architecture.
Such is the serenity of this spot, It calls one to linger, to infuse the atmosphere and step quietly.
And the next morning when one awakens to the same serenity, enjoy a leisurely breakfast on the boat.
And linger more.
A Watery Jaunt through the Great Glen: Inverness to Loch Ness
Exactly how should one approach the first visit to Scotland. What and where to focus? The Royal Mile, Sir Walter Scott or the crown jewels in Edinburgh? Chase the monster in Loch Ness? Climb Ben Nevis? Tour the distilleries on Islay? Meditate at Culloden? Listen to Mendelsohn in the Orkneys?
All should be first on a list. Then a friend who visited Scotland a year ago mentioned that as he and his spouse looked down from the Highlands they saw small boats crossing Scotland on the Caledonian Canal. The image felt right—a virgin trip to Scotland should start at water level and work itself up and the tectonic fault that split Scotland 400 million years ago and created the Great Glen is a good place to begin.
When one thinks of a great rift, the current example is the valley created in Africa as Africa drifts away from Europe and Asia or the San Andreas fault in California which has the Pacific plate moving one (northwest) direction and the North American continent, another (southeast)—a fault somewhat similar to what happened in Scotland all those millions of years ago during the Devonian Period—which began as the age of fish and ended with the first terrestrial plants, first amphibians, first vertebrates and the great forests which later became the Carboniferous age that laid down the coal and oil deposits we overuse today. Even dinosaurs had yet to become a twinkle in the evolutionary eye. An artist’s rendition of what it may have looked like is below.
This fault is the Great Glen in The Highlands of Scotland, twice as old as the worn down Appalachians, and the remnant of tectonic forces which split apart another great continental mass long before geographic Europe, Asia and Africa or the Americas existed.
This educational explanation by Britain’s Geologic Society clearly illustrates why Scotland looks like Scotland and not like England.
“The Great Glen is a huge valley, eroded by glaciers more than 10,000 years ago. These glaciers carved the valley below present-day sea level, forming a series of deep lakes. Loch Ness is the largest and most famous of the lakes.
The Great Glen follows a line of rocks weakened by fault that moved between 400 and 300 million years ago.
Scientists have matched up rocks across the fault to show that, during this time, the northern part of Scotland moved over 90 km (60 miles) to the north-east.”[I]
Strike-slip fault, Great Glen, Scotland
It also might explain why the Scots are not like the English because Romans fifteen hundred years ago never successfully navigated beyond or defend against these geological rifts, finally gave up and built Hadrian’s Wall.
In 1803 England began construction of canals that would link the four lochs in the Great Glen and allow ships to pass in 60 miles from the North Sea in the east to the Irish Sea to the west ad bypass the hundreds of miles sailing around the northern islands of Scotland. The canals were completed in 1822 with a total of 29 locks and the passage has been in use ever since
In Inverness on a quiet Monday in May, our crew of four boarded a 35-foot Caley cabin cruiser named Eriskay IV and after navigating like a drunken sailor until I learned that at slow speeds responsive steering takes time, we passed through Tomnahurich Swing bridge, through Loch Dochgarroch and onto Loch Duchfour where gorse in all its gold flowering filled the landscape.
There is an interesting sign at that first swing bridge reminding skippers…well read the second paragraph:
When I looked back at our flotilla leaving Caley Cruisers with one boat sideways in the canal, one boat backwards, I didn’t feel so bad about my unbalanced lumbering while I developed a feel for the wheel. I also began to understand why crowds gathered at each lock to enjoy the show.
In the long run, my brother-in-law was an experienced seaman and whenever things got a bit tight, he effortlessly took the helm and guided us expertly through.
As one slows into the rhythms of water, time begins to lose its drive as well—the present becomes more focused than the past or the future. Where ever we docked and began to walk to a castle or pub for dinner, the standing joke on directions is everything in Scotland is a “ten or fifteen minute walk away.” Walking to Urquhart Castle ended up being an hour-and-a-half of “ten minute walks” only to discover the castle was a strong fly fisher’s cast from where we moored the boat. But since we could not walk on water, it was inland until we found a bridge and by the time we hiked to the ruins, the castle had closed. And then the hike back.
[i] The Great Glen Fault. William Quarrier Kennedy. Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society, 102, 41-76, 1 April 1946, https://doi.org/10.1144/GSL.JGS.1946.102.01-04.04
One Who Stands Alone
Fifty years ago this winter, I was just returned from Vietnam, shoulders heavy with war and on my way from a home in the Pennsylvania Amish country to a new posting at Fort Devens, Massachusetts. I drove late into the night until the cold and fatigue caught me as I crossed the Connecticut/Massachusetts border on I-84 and found a rest area on the Mass Pike likely near Sturbridge. I pulled in, and as all good soldiers know how to do, went right to sleep in my car.
At dawn I opened my eyes and spread before me was the entire Central Massachusetts landscape: the Connecticut River valley on the left, Quabbin Reservoir to the center, a distant Boston far to the right. Presiding over it all was a tree-lined, snow-capped mountain with a granite peak—Monadnock: He Who Stands Alone.
I did not know then of Monadnock and Emerson, Monadnock and Thoreau, Monadnock and Older, or Monadnock and Kinnell. It was the vision I recognized and experienced at that moment. Upon this great rock I would anchor the rest of my life. Only much later did it become clear how it has anchored so many others of this culture and those before that, the ones who gave the rock its name.
The mountain is a mystic, magically transforming its few thousand feet of altitude into a height recognized around the planet. Even the dictionary finds its attempt at clarity undermined by its connotations: “monadnock – In geology, a single remnant of a former highland.” Monadnock, the last man standing.
The mountain befuddles most photographers and painters—revealing its power to mesmerize only to those who can see beyond their craft.
I recall a mid-winter in early 1990s when Chinese poet and translator Zhang Ziqing visited to see for himself this place of Thoreau and Emerson. Snow piled to the eaves of houses as we drove out to good vantage beyond Jaffrey, New Hampshire, and stopped.
Zhang pulled out an Instamatic camera to take a photograph and because I had tried and failed many times to use an Instamatic to photograph the mountain, I knew it would miss the magic. It was like photographing a ghost in a mirror. I said, “No, no, the picture won’t come out.”
Something got lost in the translation because he put away his Instamatic, but when he returned to Nanjing University, he wrote an essay about how Monadnock is so sacred that one is not permitted to photograph it, and so, out of a cultural misunderstanding, was born the Monadnock Pastoral Poets and their sacred mountain.
As the decades have passed and I have witnessed its effect again and again on others, it has occurred to me that Zhang was right. The mysticism of He Who Stands Alone had taken possession, and I did not know it. According to the 2014 Fairpoint phonebook, Monadnock has possessed at least 117 other businesses as well: Monadnock schools, Monadnock banks, Monadnock dairies, Monadnock dentists, Monadnock septic tank cleaners, Monadnock Music and Monadnock Writers’ Group, Monadnock Family Services, and Monadnock Fence. The list—like the mountain—goes on and on.
We are as spiritually under the influence of this gray whale of a rock today as were Henry David Thoreau, painter William Preston Phelps, and Mark Twain, who wrote in his autobiography about its magic during his summers in Dublin, New Hampshire. How does a mountain just a hair over three thousand feet high do it? It’s a mystery.
One can drive south to New Salem, Massachusetts, and look north to see Monadnock stun the Quabbin Reservoir with its image. One can drive just as far north to Pitcher Mountain and look south and there is Monadnock again lording over the horizon. Go west to Vermont and drive east from Brattleboro on Route 9 or Putney from Route 12 toward Keene and one comes around a hilltop curve expecting to see more of the traditional Appalachian ridges. Instead one gets this thing that looks like another hill except it just keeps on growing, morphing into a tree line and the gray granite visage of a mountain that should be out West. Go east to the coast and drive west. At each rise from Portsmouth or Boston, there is the dark profile of Monadnock on the horizon—its image almost Biblical–speaking in the tongue of the mind: “Come ye who labor and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest.”
This essay and photo was first published in New England Memories, Summer 2018 issue
Magic of Monadnock II
It’s hard to know what state the state of poetry is in the rest of the nation, but the state of poetry in New Hampshire this past month reinforces why settling here over four decades ago was a decision that keeps on giving back.
Two years ago, as I ascended or descended the stairways inside the Department of Foreign Languages at Shanghai University of International Business and Economics (SUIBE) I was struck by how each stairwell displayed a prominent quote in English by Henry David Thoreau. Whether those quotes were window dressings or carried weight with the Chinese citizens who also daily ascended and descended those stairs was amply answered when five poets from China accepted Keene State College’s invitation to visit the Monadnock Region and hike to Thoreau’s rock on Mount Monadnock. The earlier blog spot deals with that hike. But the week was more than that hike, for example, exactly where else can one get 46 students, poets, and community members together to create nine-linked verses we call American Rengas. The renga is an Asian form of linked verse taught me by Boston poet Steven Rattimer at a New England Artists Trust conference decades ago. An American renga is an expanded form of that style which permits us to add color and art to replace calligraphy in lines of linked poetry created on the spot by a group of writers. The process has a mathematical progression which allows each participant an opportunity to create equal lines of poetry and art in a joint verse.
by Chen Yihai
Spring awaits itself
Flowers blossom themselves
Water does not have its identity
And the wind’s greatest pleasure is to lose itself
Also during that week the visiting poets got to mingle with a more modern-day American Thoreau-like poet named Henry Walters who resides in his own Walden-like creation on a rocky spine above the campus of the Dublin School. Inside Walters treated his visitors to a Brahms piano piece he played on an upright piano he somehow managed to fit snugly into his cabin. This is something the one-dimensional thinkers of Silicon Valley don’t quite understand—that flat screen depiction of reality is no more real than the cartoons of our youth. It may depict a picture of reality, might even sound like reality, but it is a miniature, flat reality. It doesn’t smell, feel, or taste like reality—even if down the road someone will try to add those features. All the video in the world cannot replace the sense of sitting on Thoreau’s Rock and listening to one another sing poetry or sip tea in Henry Walter’s cabin as he plays Brahms.
Earlier all gathered for an upstairs meal in the Keene building once owned by Thoreau’s mother’s family and a place he stayed during his Monadnock visits. Later we gathered at the Historical Society of Cheshire County to hear poetry in two languages and music by classical guitarist David Gru6under. Families even brought their children. Imagine, in Keene, New Hampshire, families bring children to hear poetry. And the children, as attentive as I, listened to those sounds of Mandarin and understood that definitions are only 30 percent of communication—the body delivering those definitions provides the other 70 percent.
But after Chen Yihai and Zi Chuan returned to China, the poetry doesn’t stop in the Granite State. A few weeks later an e-mail came across my transom that New England College theater students and their director had created a theater piece titled “Allowances” using fifty poems of witness as its script. And there at the small theater in the only Henniker on Earth, I listened to a group of NEC students use music, dance, and song both poetic and literal to put to shame the idea that America is a white-bread frozen meal waiting to be popped into a microwave for a quick bite to eat. No, even the occasional forgotten line could not demonstrate more clearly that this nation is at its best when it’s a bubbling melting pot of stew simmering on the stove.
The Water Chestnut Pond
by Zi Chuan
The wind can not stir a ripple
on the icy surface of the pond.
Like crystal and amber a few
brown leaves have embedded themselves
in the ice. A hole for a water bucket
gapes near the pier’s springboard.
Nearby water chestnuts and arrowheads
hide deep within the frozen rice paddies
where dry plants rustle in the cold wind.
In front of the frozen pond, it’s hard to imagine
how large the area water chestnut leaves spread
with their white flowers clustered
in the summer of 1970, as if water chestnuts
were lifted overnight. But vividly I remember
the water caltrop-picking girl who sat
on the small boat with red dragonflies overhead.
I reached to give her a hand
when suddenly her boat overturned
and she fell into the water.
When she waded ashore her soaked clothes
exposed the lines of her body.
Afterward, she blushed with shame
whenever she saw me.
That winter, she married,
floating away in a boat.
translated by Zhang Ziqing
edited by Rodger Martin
 It refers to the second year when Zi Chuan came to the countryside.
The Magic of Monadnock: Poetry That Bridges Continents
Geology has a way of grabbing writers’ attention, especially when that geology thrusts itself in a lonely fashion, a few thousand feet above a plain where lots of artists hang about as Maoshan does in China or Mount Monadnock does in New Hampshire.
Li Po [or Li Bai (701–762), also known as Li Bo] fell under that spell again and again. Even his titles mention mountains over and over and they occur within the poems themselves such as this one where he mentions the Taoist Maoshan directly:
Weeping over Wang Yan’s1 Death
on the Way in Li Shui2
You, rare treasure of our time, oh, gone too young.
I’ve missed your funeral, and like heavy air,
the sorrow weighs.
Now your grave is covered with autumn grass.
I want to give my sword for you, but don’t know how
to choose, at the edge of this grave,
a suitable branch to hang it.
Though I haven’t died of crying before this place,
I’ll shed tears on the road to Danyang,
back and forth,
the rest of my life.
Translated by Zhang Ziqing,
Edited by Rodger Martin (For All The Tea in Zhōngguó)
Emerson and Thoreau noticed the effect as well and highlighted the long literary trail that attaches itself to Mount Monadnock which, as Interpretative Ranger Brittany O’Neal reminded us in our October Pilgrimage to Thoreau’s Rock, drew over 160,000 climbers in 2016 (and that number only includes those who registered through the state park). That’s today and Thoreau and Emerson were then, but even in Thoreau’s time there was scorn for those who simply climbed to reach the summit when he noted in his journal:
“Those who climb to the peak of Monadnock have seen but little of the mountain. I came not to look off from it, but to look at it. The view of the pinnacle itself from the plateau below surpasses any view which you get from the summit. It is indispensible to see the top itself and the sierra of its outline from one side…. It is remarkable what haste the visitors make to get to the top of the mountain and then look away from it.”
Therefore, on Wednesday, October 11, 2017, as part of the week-long Magic of Monadnock Colloquium: Poetry Bridging Continents which acted as a cultural exchange between poets from American and poets from China (despite three whom the United States Government denied entry visas—such has become the state of American leadership’s insecurity to any mirror image which does not reflect exactly like itself that it even fears poets ). a group of eight led by Ranger O’Neal climbed Thoreau’s route to his rock not to the peak, determined to pay homage to the magic of this mountain in a place Thoreau himself had done so.
Once at Thoreau’s Rock, Mark Long, Director of the Integrated Studies Program at Keene State College read A. R. Ammons’ poem “For Harold Bloom” which as critic David Lehman noted in his introduction to Ammons’ Selected Poems indicated Ammons saw climbing simply to reach a mountain’s peak the same way Thoreau saw it: When the poet reaches the “summit, … he feels a certain desolation or emptiness”:
Mark Long reads Ammons at Thoreau’s Rock
….for the word tree I have been shown a tree
and for the word rock I have been shown a rock,
for stream, for cloud, for star
this place has provided firm implication and answering
but where here is the image for longing:….
Indeed there was magic and longing at this granite outcropping as the nine of us read and listened to the words of these two American poets and then the words of Chinese pastoral poet Chen Yihai and finally the calligrapher Zichuan who read his calligraphy in the ancient way—that is to say–it must be sung. And Zichuan sang, and the song floated into the sky among the Vs of geese flying south and an autumn ablaze in color.
And so it was all week as poets, and lovers of poetry gathered around The Grand Monadnock for a week of poetry in two languages.
August 31, 2017
There are times when one should wonder if the unexpected is really unexpected rather than an unconscious plot hidden from the conscious mind that surreptitiously directs us to the place we need to be.
Such was the case when I received an invitation from Archivist Rodney Obien of Keene State College to travel to Dennysville, Maine, to view the opening of a Robert Munford exhibition in that village of just over 300 people in Washington County, the size of Rhode Island and Delaware with only 34,000 people in it.
In the 1970s, I had camped at relatively nearby (60-70 miles) Jonesport, Maine, and recalled it as already cut-off from the rest of East Coast United States—a place one went to escape. Jonesport is also the beginning of how to really understand what “DownEast” means.
But to truly comprehend DownEast, one should head north on Maine’s U.S. 1, past the Freeport outlets, past the Boothbay Peninsula where the highway’s northern suggestion gradually undulates eastward, past the summer playground of Arcadia National Park where the remaining holiday tourists peel off, leaving only the determined traveler who still must wind east and pass Machias (pronounced Ma-CHI-es) until he or she reaches Lubec , (pronounced like a trochee: LOU-BEC) a town of about 1,400—the eastern-most spot in the United States. 1,400 people in this county is a metropolis. (While we’re at it, Calais, Maine, is pronounced: like callous.)
Next, take the state highway down a long, narrow, peninsula and you will discover West Quoddy Light State Park.
If you walk to the eastern corner of the cyclone fence protecting you from falling over the reddish stone cliffs, you can situate yourself upon the easternmost corner of the continental United States. Not that there is any mystical vibration at the spot but if one is go down east from most of Maine which is north and east of Portland, one might as well go all the way.
For a seaside town in August, being able to find parking space on the street directly in front of Frank’s Harborside Restaurant also makes one recognize just how far away the rest of the tourists have lost themselves. I sat on the noon-time deck of Frank’s and discarded any ideas a choice other than seafood . While I waited, I ordered a local brew: Presque Isle Honey Ale which arrived in a can and a pilsner glass that I set on the railing of the deck where its honey colo and foamy white head, made perfect contrast to the blue sky and the swirling currents of Cobscook Bay.
Out in the bay, five seals surfaced, snuffed their snouts and brought in fresh breath, and then raised themselves to see if anyone watched. I was and they raised even higher, saying, “Look at Me! Look at me! I am the ME-ning of Life.” I did, they rolled and dived and shortly came up again to see if I was still looking. I was. We repeated. I have no doubt that if I were sitting on the rocks below, they would have swum up, ambled aboard and sniffed, slobbered and snuffled me in delight at my attention.
Despite this late summer lifting of the spirit, the darker side of life is never far way, especially for a fishing village like Lubec, At Lost Fishermen’s Memorial Park, the triangular granite, so much an echo of Maine Mountains or the more distant gray, mountainous North Atlantic seas, has already received 113 names etched into its gray stone.
Across a narrow, two-lane arched bridge lies Campobello Island, the summer home of Franklin D. and Eleanor Roosevelt. It is now the site of The Roosevelt Campobello International Park. One must enter Canada via customs and return to the U.S. via customs, and a passport is desired, since I had forgotten my passport, but I was easily allowed to enter and return though U.S. Border agents did present me with a “Noncompliant Citizen” tag upon my return.
Nowhere is the current hypocrisy of “America First” more evident than at this international park by two nations to one of the United States’ greatest leaders. I hear our current President is under great stress. If only Melania might convince him to relax into a chair and wheel over to Campobello and into Tea With Eleanor where maybe the heart-felt stories told by three Canadian docents might somehow find entry into his consciousness and the planet would be better off because of it. Something else about a visit to the park, particularly Roosevelt Cottage, is we forget that Roosevelt did not catch polio until he was 38 and for those first 38 years, was a physically active bundle of energy. The family photogpraphs are a reminder of those first 38 years.
Campobello Island is also home to West Quoddy’s sister: East Quoddy Light. On my drive to visit it, Deer Island framed the channel where finback whales and porpoises played in the waters. On my return, I stopped again at Lost Fishermen’s Memorial Park and noticed the small boat landing leading down into the water of Cobscott Bay and Quoddy Narrows. No agents, no barriers, just a sign posted for the boaters coming onto the landing: Non U.S. Citizens should (walk down Water St. a couple of blocks) check in with U.S. Customs. These neighbors show exactly how a border between two nations ought to exist.
edited Munford for Mumford, 9-2-17
July 8, 2017
A Much-Needed Fourth of July Commentary
During graduate school in the late 1970s, a professor assigned me to read Supreme Court opinions (both pro and con) of the major educational issues the country had faced in its history. What struck me then was that regardless of whether I agreed or disagreed with the decisions, the reasoning on both sides convinced me regardless of the outcome, both sides had sound reasons for making their choices.
This speech by Chief Justice John Roberts to his ninth grade son and classmates, assured me that the helm at The Supreme Court is still in good hands. It is 18 minutes in total, but even the first five-minute introduction is worth hearing.
February 18, 2017
“Give me your tired, your poor,
Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free,
The wretched refuse of your teeming shore.
Send these, the homeless, tempest-tost to me,
I lift my lamp beside the golden door!” Emma Lazarus
Sat., Feb. 18, 2017 10:02 a.m. EST
Eight people flee U.S. border patrol to seek asylum in Canada Full story at Reuters, Canada. It’s hard to fathom the party of Lincoln has forced the resurrection of the Underground Railway.
And for the holier-than-thou-party-leaders of Franklin Roosevelt especially in Pennsylvania, Michigan, Ohio and Wisconsin, they have on one to blame but themselves because:
According to Henry Grabar, Slate staff writer, research by political scientist Jonathon Rodden of Stanford University, “Even in 2016, Democrats Carried Rust Belt Town Centers.
“For Democrats, the problem with these people isn’t that they didn’t vote Democratic; it’s that they didn’t vote at all. In some cases, turnout in downtown precincts was about half what it was a few miles away. Clinton still carried them,” wrote Grabar.
January 14, 2017
If 2017 or The Year of the Rooster in China has an inaugural need it might be this graphic which my co-advisor at The Equinox, Keene State College’s award-winning student media organization, forwarded to the editors. As near as I can tell, it is a web post from a French Catholic institution though I suspect, since the image is in English, it also came to them second-hand. Regardless, it is a fitting image for a time that feels as if we are reliving the last century and Yeats’s “Second Coming” where:
“The best lack all conviction, while the worst
are full of passionate intensity.”
Were I President-Elect Trump, who talks as if he believes he has the power of decree, I would decree the poster be placed as the screen-saver of every mobile device, computer screen, and television set in the nation. Then perhaps any conversation of substance between those with differing ideas might take place with some semblance of reason and respect that one’s personal perspective might not be the whole picture.
Alas then I see my Facebook notices and e-mail forwards and I’m reminded belief has little to do with reason or truth, and snake oil has now been replaced by fake news. Mark Twain’s Duke of Bilgewater has become real again.
Social media, despite its ability to fool us into thinking it contains that most critical and important third dimension—depth─is still only a flat, two dimensional recreation of reality (just like the graphic at the top of the post). For all our back-slapping progress, we have progressed intellectually not much farther than Plato’s cave. Social media is simply the modern substitute for the reflection of the unseen flames outside the cave. Though as I look at those Facebook posts and ads and forwarded e-mails, maybe we are not even as far along as Plato. At least Plato’s shadows were a reflection of an actual flame.
Twitter is the perfect example of the social media dilemma. It has real value for breaking information or life threatening issues like tornadoes, tsunamis, accidents, ice on the roads, any immediate problem, but beyond that? Well, the root of “twitter” is “twit.”
If we are going to govern via Twitter, Congress’s opening 12-hour fiasco and its about face on its first vote to pull the teeth from the House Ethics Committee is only the initial and smallest of the roller coaster rides we have embarked upon. Propaganda always has a kernel of truth in it, just enough to get a believer to hang his or her hat on its peg.
But we also now have fake news. The Chinese get fooled by The Onion; Americans get fooled by the KGB. What is that cliché that so wonderfully bogged President George W. Bush: “Fool me once . . . .”
All this brings to mind another of the lesser quoted lines from Yeats’s “Second Coming:”
“The falcon cannot hear the falconer;
Things fall apart, the center cannot hold;”
Yeats may have been talking about his theory of two-thousand-year cycles of civilization, but the symbolism of a falcon: a predator (and all it implies in our current technology), a hawk, and finally America itself unleashed from its moorings because of noise.
I suppose, if you are still reading this, you have become as discouraged as I have been over the months I’ve tried to write this. Let me offer a kernel of light; as I re-read Yeats’s poem a thought struck me—the hawk’s primary method of orienting itself is sight not sound. I checked with poet Henry Walters, a falconer himself, (see Sept. 14, 2014 post, MPIB 2014 Archive) and he confirmed that sight, not sound is a hawk’s primary contact with his “lure” (An animal part the hawk learns to associate with food, for example, part of a grouse wing). Though Walters also noted if the hawk circled behind a hill, the falconer might use sound to help bring it back but generally the hawk will circle higher and find its lure on its own.
Therefore if we, as a nation, have circled our predatory selves behind a hill and lost sight of our lure, all we need is a thermal to push us a little higher, then despite the noise, we will see our lure and our way home.
Walters also pointed out that once a hawk returns to its lure, it will not leave again until it has been fed. Noise-makers would be wise to take note of that.